New Wan Chai izakaya Nadagogo is fittingly named after the largest sake-producing region in Japan. It’s a place to let loose, enjoying pour after pour complemented by an extensive Japanese food menu that offers both authenticity and panache.
Nadagogo is also a spot that’s tailor-made for Instagram and the Xiaohongshu crowds. Three rows of Japanese lanterns beckon diners inside the modern izakaya on Ship Street, which also boasts a happening al-fresco space, even when the heat is on.
When it comes to the food, there are three culinary concepts showcased on the izakaya’s menu: yakitori, robatayaki, and washoku.
Japanese chef Tsunenori Takahashi is joined by veteran local chef Anson Ma, who has overseen the kitchens of top yakitori and ramen restaurants in Hong Kong for 30 years, to kick-start the yakitori experience here.
Three types of chicken are put in the spotlight at Nadagogo; there’s forest chicken from Okayama Prefecture, low-fat, umami Awaodori chicken from Tokushima Prefecture, and Kurosatsuma chicken from the island of Kyushu, prized for its tenderness and succulence.
Whilst we found the chicken thigh (HKD42) and chicken neck (HKD42) skewers to be their standard juicy, salty, well-grilled selves, they couldn’t compete with the chicken paw meat (HKD46). This was the first time we’ve savoured this yakitori cut with its unique crispy exterior and chewy inside. The addictive texture is similar to soft bone.
Also noteworthy in the yakitori section are the local farmed fresh chicken wing (HKD32) and homemade minced chicken stick with egg yolk (HKD55). The plump wing – nearly the size of our palm – is extra juicy and fatty, just how we like it. In contrast, the tsukune has a softer texture than we’re accustomed to, yet the required salty-sweet-savoury flavour is spot on.
What’s more, we really enjoyed the Japanese lettuce and pork roll (HKD78), which couples rich Hokkaido Yume no Daichi pork belly with a fat stack of fresh, crunchy lettuce. The variation in texture makes for a winning dish.
Native Okinawan chef Shimoji Atsushi injects global touches to season his charcoal-grilled beef, chicken, and seafood in the robatayaki portion of Nadagogo’s menu. We devoured the M7 grilled Australian Wagyu harami steak (HKD228), served nearly rare. The harami, or skirt steak, has a robust natural flavour that pairs well with chef Shimoji’s sweet soy marinade. The homemade chilli sauce and garlic chips on the side are worthy accompaniments with their pops of spice and bitterness.
Not so successful was the grilled Hokkaido scallop “kaiyaki style” with sea urchin (HKD268). Presented in a scallop shell, the flavour of the diced scallop is overpowered by the liquidy miso sauce, which is also far too sweet, and we could detect only the faintest taste of the billed uni. Perhaps opt for the salt-grilled kinki (HKD580) instead, which another diner recommended to us.
Washoku is Nadagogo’s third culinary USP, referring to the traditional, staple dishes of Japan, from tempura and rice balls to ramen and udon. The Nadagogo-style chicken ramen in salt-flavoured supreme soup (HKD118) is a champion in the shio-ramen stakes. Pork fat is used to enrich the clear chicken broth in order to achieve ample umami. Along with the salty, savoury soup, the chewy noodles are wonderfully slurpable.
Our verdict of Nadagogo
Judging by the crowds, Nadagogo is Ship Street’s latest restaurant darling, and we concur – the food is authentic, the vibe is fab, and the prices are reasonable. We expect the izakaya to be packed at both lunchtimes (the generous lunch sets start from HKD158) and for dinner, especially when it’s cool enough for whiling the night away in the inviting outdoor space.
Nadagogo, 18 Ship Street, Wan Chai, 5968 0586, WhatsApp 5394 3684, book here
| Order this: chicken paw, minced chicken stick, and chicken wing yakitori, grilled Wagyu, chicken ramen, grilled kinki Menu: unavailable online Price for two: HKD800–1,000 | Atmosphere: the 3 Cs – chilled, convivial, and cosy – with the distinct ambience of a neighbourhood izakaya Perfect for: Japanophiles seeking the latest F&B hotspot from the Land of the Rising Sun, this time at a more affordable price point than the usual omakase eateries that proliferate in the city |
This review is intended to offer an individual perspective on the dining experience and should not be considered as a definitive judgement of the restaurant’s overall quality or reputation. The views expressed in this review are solely the author’s and do not reflect the opinions of Foodie.
