Happy 10 years, Little Bao! This casual dining institution, which began as an intimate counter-dining concept back in 2013, is where Chef May Chow – crowned Asia’s Best Female Chef 2017 – kicked off the trend for Chinese fusion cuisine (most notably with her iconic pork belly bao). Chef Chow’s 10th-anniversary menu is a whimsical journey that celebrates the classic flavours of Little Bao, along with the chef’s roots and memories.

The delicate smoked eggplant salad (HK$78) is given a Middle Eastern twist. Drizzled with mild Chiu Chow chilli oil, smoked aubergine is layered with labneh and toasted pine nuts and garnished with a heap of slivered spring onion.

The lamb tartare (HK$178) is inspired by classic French beef tartare, instead using Ibérico lamb seasoned heavily with takana (a Japanese mustard green), giving the dish a fresh, tart flavour profile. The puffed tofu chips used for scooping provide the perfect crunch – a creative alternative to bread or crackers.

From the 2014 menu, the orange chicken karaage (HK$128), made with local three-yellow chicken, is a must-try. Salted egg-yolk foam is mixed into the batter, which is fried to a golden brown before being glazed in a light orange-honey sauce with a hint of cardamom. This dish is Chef Chow’s homage to the addictive orange chicken served up by American fast-food chain Panda Express (Chef Chow, what about some honey-walnut shrimp for your next foray into Chinese-American cuisine?).

These OG mac and cheese rice rolls (HK$128) feature freshly made cheung fun (Cantonese steamed rice rolls) in a Cheddar cheese sauce laced with spicy, salty, umani mentaiko (salted and fermented cod roe). This dish is the epitome of East-meets-West comfort food.

Of course, a bao is a given on this 10th-anniversary menu. The 24-hour sous-vide short rib bao (HK$148) makes a triumphant return from 2019, the result of a collaboration with Michelin-starred chef Thitid “Ton” Tassanakajohnof of Le Du in Bangkok (currently ranked number 1 on Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants) and newcomer Niras here in the 852.

The bao is layered with tender short rib, tangy slaw and a hefty slice of deep-fried aubergine (a common ingredient in Thai curries). Creamy, comforting and dripping with green curry mayo, this high-in-demand bao captures the essence of affordable luxury.

An ice-cream bao (HK$68) is a must for dessert at Little Bao. In each deep-fried mantou (Chinese steamed bun), strawberries marinated with Sichuan peppercorn are sandwiched alongside homemade lychee-coconut ice cream – then the whole dreamy concoction is drizzled with condensed milk. This dessert pays tribute to Chef Chow’s stint at Michelin-starred chef Alvin Leung’s Bo Innovation, where she conceived the idea of Sichuan strawberries.

Verdict

Little Bao’s 10th-anniversary menu is deeply personal to Chef Chow, reflecting her childhood, career and achievements. The innovative fusion dishes are timeless and approachable, especially for those who’ve never had a taste of local ingredients or experienced East-meets-West culinary interpretations. These throwback signatures remain outstandingly delicious each and every time.

This write-up is based on a complimentary media tasting provided in exchange for an honest review and no monetary compensation. The opinions expressed here represent the author’s.

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ARTIFACT Bar opened this past spring as a sister venue to its Japanese counter-dining eatery at BaseHall 02, led by influential bar industry veterans (and married couple) Ezra Star and Beckaly Franks of The Pontiac, Quality Goods Club and Call Me AL (notably, Franks was crowned the Altos Bartenders’ Bartender at this year’s Asia’s 50 Best Bars awards).

Since the bar’s inception, its avant-garde interior, taking unique inspiration from the otherworldly atmosphere found at underground water reservoirs, has become a talking point. In such a quirky, futuristic setting, ARTIFACT places a creative, modern spin on old-fashioned (some might even say outdated) cocktails.

While ARTIFACT keeps a permanent collection of signature cocktails, their latest quarterly rotating menu (all cocktails HK$170) spotlights a historic aged spirit – French gin Citadelle. A highlight of Citadelle gin is its utilisation of the progressive infusion method. The gin is barrel-aged in French oak with multiple botanicals, with more than 12 different aromas and flavours present, from a type of camomile native to France, to herbs and spices such as rosemary, cardamom and nutmeg, to Japanese citrus fruit yuzu.

One of these seasonal Citadelle cocktails is the Rickey, a riff on the classic gin rickey, which dates back to 1883. At ARTIFACT, this is a lightly carbonated tipple focusing on the fruity, zesty flavours of blueberry and yuzu. This slightly sweet, refreshing drink also has a subtle saltiness and herbaceous notes from the inclusion of coriander.

For something even sweeter (which looks deceptively like a martini), we recommend the Stirred Gimlet, served ice cold and garnished with an extra-large Japanese grape. This cocktail presents a multisensory contrast, balancing the intense, umami aroma of sesame oil with both the sweetness of grape and delicacy of shiso.

A great choice for a nightcap, the pre-bottled Sazerac is a classic cocktail with the addition of VSOP cognac, bringing the flavours of French oak to the forefront alongside the warm, spicy notes of anise and juniper.

In addition to the seasonal cocktails, ARTIFACT Bar’s food menu has been given a complete makeover. Previously, the bar showcased luxe snacks that contained a lot of truffle, caviar, gold flakes and Wagyu. Now, the menu presents casual, modern Japanese plates whilst maintaining its premium izakaya-style counter-dining experience – now dubbed ARTIFACT K·A·Y·A – outside the bar (ARTIFACT K·A·Y·A·’s menu can also be served inside the bar, with a new dinner tasting menu on board too).

Some of my favourite bar bites include the tsukune stuffed wings (HK$120), which are tossed in Okinawan black sugar, and the deep-fried Wagyu beef gyozas (HK$160), which are brightened by a smoky charred red bell pepper sauce on the side. On the lighter end of the spectrum, the otoro with lotus chips (HK$210), smaller in portion, is complemented by an earthy shiso vinaigrette.

Verdict

ARTIFACT is guaranteed to take your palate on a flavour-packed journey with its thoughtful, whimsical approach to vintage cocktails. The drinks are complex and multisensory, using an array of layered ingredients to contrast on the nose and palate.

This write-up is based on a complimentary media tasting provided in exchange for an honest review and no monetary compensation. The opinions expressed here represent the author’s.

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An extension of award-winning bar The Pontiac, PONTY CAFé, opened last September by powerhouse duo Beckaly Franks and Ezra Star, is back with a bang. Offering an expanded all-day menu, the American bistro focuses on comfort-food classics, taking diners’ palates on a journey of discovery of the cuisine of the Southern USA. While The Pontiac is loud and proud, this sister café is chill and low-key.

With The Pontiac as its sibling, PONTY CAFé’s American-inspired cocktails are just as notable as its grub. We opted for two refreshing tipples – Tepache & Tonic (HK$88) and Tarragon Spritz mocktail (HK$68) – to enjoy over the course of the evening.

The fruity mocktail is made with Lyre’s Italian Spritz (a non-alcoholic spirit) with vibrant notes of orange, tarragon and white grape, topped with soda for some fizz. The Tepache focuses on pineapple, with a bit of creamy nuttiness from the sherry. Tepache is a fermented drink made from the peel and rind of pineapple, which is then seasoned and served chilled. It takes the PONTY team around three days to create their tepache before it’s mixed with an XECO sherry blend, a new-generation sherry produced in Spain, and tonic.

On the food side, we started with the Southwest Caesar salad (HK$108). It features crispy romaine, house-made buttermilk croutons, thin slices of anchovy and a spicy Southwest-style dressing. There’s a lot of flavour packed into this Southern-style Caesar salad. The creamy dressing is pretty spicy, giving a kick to the romaine, while the anchovy (which isn’t at all fishy) adds a smooth texture and some saltiness, heightening the flavour of the dressing.

Take us to Nashville! This dish of biscuits and gravy (HK$108) is PONTY’s take on that classic Southern staple. The thick, savoury gravy is made with pork and sage, and it drenches the extra-large, fluffy buttermilk biscuit. The biscuit is topped with fried shallot for some crunch, and there’s also honey butter for a touch of sweetness. This is delicious but heavy – definitely a dish best shared.

At this point we were getting full, so it’s probably best that the burger (HK$130) doesn’t come with fries (HK$38). The thick beef patty is wedged between a soft, toasted sesame bun, complete with American cheese, dill pickle for some welcome acidity and a creamy “euphoria” sauce (it’s a secret!). This is another classic American number that goes down well with a few drinks.

Verdict

Just like The Pontiac, PONTY CAFé has its own charming quirks. If you’re looking for a chilled Southern vibe, this is where it’s at.

This write-up is based on a complimentary media tasting provided in exchange for an honest review and no monetary compensation. The opinions expressed here represent the author’s.

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Nestled on Jervois Street in Sheung Wan is SUIT, a neighbourhood café during the day and, at night, a low-key restaurant offering modern Japanese sharing plates alongside sake flights and highballs. Inspired by the izakaya dining culture of Japan, SUIT focuses on using global ingredients to capture the authenticity of modern Japanese cuisine, with a bit of local Chinese flair thrown in to boot.

We kicked off our evening with a bold, boozy chuhai (HK$68) and slightly sweet ginger lemon sour highball (HK$78).

If you’re at SUIT for a drink, the otsumami (Japanese snacks that are customarily served with alcoholic drinks) are adventurous add-ons. The yeasty tofu (HK$48), despite having a peculiar name, offers thin tofu crisps served with an aged buttery, sweet miso dip, while the marinated soy kanroni shiitake (HK$48) focuses on sweet, earthy notes and is served atop homemade shrimp crackers.

Two dishes that shine as appetisers are the all-in aubergine (HK$118) and fish mosaic (HK$168). First up, charcoal-coloured aubergine purée is rolled into a log and topped with thin sweet potato crisps, with the middle intertwined with a pistachio sauce, crispy mushrooms and chudo (fermented fish-stomach lining). This cold dish works well for the summer, focusing on nutty, sweet and slightly citrusy flavours, with a swish of olive-oil-infused whipped yoghurt coating each bite. We recommend adding on a crisp textural component to prevent any mushiness.

The skilfully assembled rolled yellowtail in nori is wedged between wasabi yoghurt and dashi jelly. Irregular, chunky cuts of yellowtail create an artistic mosaic that feels (almost) too pretty to eat. The complementary mildly spicy and umami flavours of the yoghurt and jelly highlight the buttery texture of the raw fish.

For a full-on experience, you can ask the team for a sake flight (HK$208 for 3 glasses or HK$308 for 5 glasses). A diverse range of both traditional and New World sake is offered at SUIT, and we opted for a sparkling glass over dinner. The Tonokomachi Spark Type-H Sparkling Sake (HK$98/90ml, HK$318/360ml or HK$618/720ml) has a fruity, delicate aroma. It went very well with our first round of dishes.

Beef chunk (HK$248) might not sound very appealing, but it’s expertly grilled to medium rare over charcoal and has an unmistakable smoky, charred flavour. Delicate grilled young bamboo, a delicacy across Asia and specifically in Japan, is served alongside the meaty main.

The charred baby carrots (HK$88) are marinated in miso, then mixed with crushed hazelnuts and toasted sesame seeds. We enjoyed the carrots’ warm, caramel-like aroma and crunchy texture.

Our final sake was the complex and creamy Hiraizumi Junmai Daiginjo (HK$98/90ml, HK$318/360ml or HK$618/720ml), which is slightly dry and acidic and pairs well with mains such as the yellow chicken rice (HK$268).

This SUIT signature plays around with Chinese cooking techniques. The soy-marinated crispy three-yellow chicken is served atop claypot rice that’s been cooked in chicken broth. A punchy ginger wine sauce with spring onion can be poured over the chicken, intensifying the sweetness of the soy.

Verdict

Delicious, thoughtful and creative Japanese flavours abound at SUIT. I’ll return to try more of the sake range. My only criticism of the izakaya is that the lights should be dimmed come evening in order to increase the intimacy factor.

This write-up is based on a complimentary media tasting provided in exchange for an honest review and no monetary compensation. The opinions expressed here represent the author’s.

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At the Four Seasons’ ARGO, Lorenzo Antinori cemented his reputation as one of Asia’s top mixologists, with the cocktail bar making an incredible debut at number three on Asia’s 50 Best Bars 2022. Now, we have a feeling that Bar Leone, Antinori’s latest (independent) venture, will be even more popular.

Nestled on the cusp of SoHo off Bridges Street, Bar Leone – which is named after the symbol (the lion) of the neighbourhood of Trastevere in Rome, Antinori’s original stomping ground – celebrates Italian pop culture with a vintage, 1970s vibe. The bar’s drink-making elements are minimal; no modern machinery such as distillation equipment is used, and the ingredient-infused bottles and made-from-scratch bases are few and far between.

The cocktails & bar snacks

The bar’s landmark cocktail is Lorenzo’s favourite – the martini. The spirit-forward Leone martini (HK$130) is served in a short, small-stemmed glass on a dark wooden tray that has a design reminiscent of the 70s. The ice-cold drink is shaken with Ginepraio gin, vermouth, dry marsala and orange blossom water, garnished with olives stuffed with Spanish almonds and more olives on the side, this time stuffed with blue cheese. The marsala gives a savoury undertone to the floral-scented martini.

The smoked olives (HK$88) are a great complement to the martini. Most times, I would never order olives as a bar snack, but these olives are exceptional. They’re smoked in a meat smoker, so each bite has an intense smoky, meaty flavour, with zero brininess and the perfect amount of saltiness.

Alternatively, the giardiniera pickles (HK$78) topped with shaved Parmesan cheese are a delicious sweet-meets-tart snack to pair with the martini.

Many of the Italian cocktails at Bar Leone, such as the negroni (HK$130), are given a seasonal twist. For summer, the yuzu bianco (a riff on the white negroni) is served alongside the classic negroni and coffee negroni, with the latter made with coffee beans sourced from Nicaragua.

Containing yuzu sake and Suze (a bitter French aperitif), the yuzu bianco is stirred with gin and fortified wine to copycat the slightly bitter ending of the classic negroni, but it remains more refreshing owing to its citrus-focused base notes.

Before we move on to the rest of the cocktails, let’s go back to highlighting more of the Bar Leone bar snacks, which are authentically Roman and executed to perfection.

The polenta cacio e pepe (HK$68) features deep-fried polenta. Cut into mini squares, the polenta is topped with shaved Pecorino cheese and black pepper to mimic the classic pasta dish. I can foresee multiples of this order – it’s extremely savoury, earthy and sharp.

The chicken liver with peach vermouth jelly (HK$110) plays around with textures and flavours. As a spread, the parfait is light and smooth, with the peach vermouth jelly providing both slightly sweet and bitter flavours on the palate.

The Roman-stuffed pizza with mortadella (HK$130) is a Bar Leone signature and the heartiest snack on the menu. How can something so simple be so satisfying? Ribboned ham and mortadella are wedged between thin, crispy pizza crust, coupled with pickled banana pepper to balance the cold cuts’ richness. This traditional Italian street food is a takeaway favourite in Rome.

In terms of lighter cocktails, we recommend the olive oil sour (HK$130) from the seasonal section. This slightly sweet and refreshingly nutty tipple contains olive oil sourced from a 100-year-old tree in Italy blended with sherry, Michter’s rye whisky, Bacardi rum, lemon and honey. It’s set with frothy egg white and topped with an abundance of orange zest.

The Bar Leone apple martini (HK$120) from the “Friends and Fam” section is given a new look sans the martini glass and is instead served in a short glass with a rectangular ice cube before being sprinkled with black pepper. Frothy apple juice is mixed with Zubrowka bison grass vodka and The Glenlivet 12 whisky. This one has a pretty heavy booze content. Also of note, 10% of the cocktail’s proceeds will be donated to the More Good Foundation.

Verdict

At Bar Leone, Lorenzo Antinori follows a traditional approach to deliver exceptionally well-balanced, Italian-inspired cocktails made with fresh, seasonal ingredients and specially sourced spirits. We love the nostalgic, old-fashioned feel of the bar… and those smoked olives!

Where: 11–15 Bridges Street, SoHo, Central

RELATED: Even more new bars and restaurants this June

This write-up is based on a complimentary media tasting provided in exchange for an honest review and no monetary compensation. The opinions expressed here represent the author’s.

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Known for its artisanal cheeses and top-notch wine selection, Terroirs by LQV is a go-to spot for drinks and intimate dinners highlighting seasonal French ingredients.

Recently, the wine bar has placed the wines and flavours of Burgundy in the spotlight, with the theme leading up to the first edition of La Paulée (HK$788/person), a grand dinner banquet on Thursday, 15 June 2023 that’s set to mirror the famous event that takes place in Burgundy each year. During La Paulée de Meursault, each guest is tasked with bringing a bottle of wine (preferably Burgundy) that is then communally shared over a extravagant luncheon and dinner. Besides being one of the largest parties in the world, this special event marks the end of the grape harvest in the region.

The classic French dishes

Along with the classic artisanal cold cut platter (HK$248 for large; HK$478 for extra large) and homemade pâté en croute (HK$138) that are kept permanently on the menu, the beef steak tartare (HK$220) makes an appearance for summer. Terriors by LQV uses hand-cut Salers Angus beef by E Fouillard that’s gently mixed with fresh herbs and condiments like mustard to give a tangy kick to each bite. The homemade duck-fat crisps add a further savoury touch.

The simple fresh endive salad (HK$148) is a summery starter that pairs well with a dry glass of white wine. There’s a mix of textures on the plate with the addition of fig, roasted walnut and buttery Brie de Meaux. A light white wine vinaigrette dresses the salad, complementing the sweet flavours of the cheese and fig while adding some tart notes to balance the creamy Brie.

While bread and butter are served with dinner, I recommend ordering the cheese gougères (HK$98) – a Burgundy speciality – as a carby add-on to your meal. These fluffy, cheesy choux balls made with raclette fermière are extremely addictive.

The cordon bleu (HK$290) and confit duck parmentier (HK$168) are best shared – they’re both rich and decadent – paired with a bold, dry glass of white or a medium- to full-bodied red.

The cordon bleu is crumbed chicken breast rolled with truffled ham and cheese, topped with a cream sauce made with Maison Clarance tarragon mustard. The mustard adds a delicious zing, helping to cut through the richness.

The parmentier is a traditional French casserole featuring layers of meat, potato and cheese – the Gallic equivalent of shepherd’s pie. At LQV, the parmentier is elevated, made with confit duck from La Maison Samaran in Toulouse layered with potato purée and baked with a cheesy crust. I felt the duck was a little too dry around the edges for my liking, however, the baked cheese topping adds a nice, chewy texture.

Instead of a sweet dessert, we recommend ending this big French meal with Terriors’ full artisanal cheeseboard (HK$850), particularly if you’re dining with a group. It comes with a premium selection of both soft and hard cheeses, lavender honey, raw butter and toasted sourdough.

Verdict

Terroirs by LQV offers a lovely, laid-back atmosphere with a range of both light and hearty classic French dishes. The diverse range of Burgundian wines adds to its appeal.

Where: 3/F, 1 Lyndhurst Terrace, Central

For reservations: phone 2550 0345 or book online

This write-up is based on a complimentary media tasting provided in exchange for an honest review and no monetary compensation. The opinions expressed here represent the author’s.

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Barkada – with the moniker referring to the Tagalog term for a group of friends – is founded by Instagram-famous influencer and author Jen Balisi alongside Gagan Gurung, who oversees the cocktail programme. At this new Singular Concepts eatery, guests can indulge in unique dishes filled with the diverse flavours and cooking techniques associated with the Southeast Asian nation of the Philippines.

The tasteful, tropical interior’s neon signs and blue-gemmed tones make for a vibrant and laid-back ambience.

The Barkada cocktails

We opted for the Barkada Sour and Sogo Manila (HK$110 each) for our first round of drinks. The Barkada Sour (right) focuses on guava and citrus flavours shaken with pandan-infused gin. This refreshing drink is topped with a frothy rice foam, giving a clean, earthy ending. While guava and citrus are a trophy pairing, the fruity flavours are too subtle, with the flavour of pandan overtaking the palate.

The Sogo Manila (left) is a bold first drink that incorporates Red Horse Beer (brewed and bottled in the Philippines), white tequila, lemonade, guava and calamansi. Served in an ice-cold glass, this drink comes off a bit harsh owing to the tequila, but the pops of calamansi are a welcome contrast, backed and strengthened by the lemonade and beer.

RELATED: More cocktails you say? Try the new Bar Leone by ARGO mixologist Lorenzo Antinori

Coconut-infused gin gives a tropical twist to the Coconut Negroni (HK$120), pictured at right, with our palate reaping the benefits of the smooth, creamy and slightly nutty flavours, while the Balikbayan (HK$120), pictured at left – which stands for a Filipino living abroad – is made with apples grown in the Philippines. Shaken with whisky, this cocktail contains apple juice, apple-pie moonshine, Fernet Hunter, citrus and mint. Unfortunately, we couldn’t detect any mint, but the spices infused into this cocktail make it taste just like liquid apple pie! Perhaps this drink was overshaken, like the Barkada Sour, as the flavours quickly became diluted.

The Barkada food menu

The dishes at Barkada provide a great introduction to Filipino cuisine. The back of the menu showcases a brief guide to the regions and cooking styles of the Philippines. Because many Filipino dishes are meat heavy, there are vegetarian options offered for those with specific dietary restrictions or diners who simply want to lighten the load.

To start, order the lumpiang Shanghai (HK$68) for some deep-fried goodness. We wished there were a few more rolls, but the sweet pineapple sauce hit the spot, complementing the savoury chicken-mince filling.

The adobo popcorn chicken (HK$108; HK$98 with tofu) is a riff on adobo – the national dish of the Philippines – flavoured with soy sauce, vinegar, garlic and bay leaves. The chicken was slightly overcooked and a little too chewy for my liking, but both this dish and the spring rolls are recommended meal openers, especially when paired with a few cocktails.

One notable starter is the salmon kinilaw (HK$128). Kinilaw is a Filipino cooking method featuring raw seafood cured with vinegar and/or citrus. At Barkada, sashimi-grade salmon is marinated with cane vinegar, calamansi, chilli, onion, fried garlic and coconut milk. This dish is spicy from the chilli, sour from the calamansi and savoury from the fried garlic, but I didn’t taste much of the coconut milk, which would have offered a welcome cooling effect. I found the rice crackers to be too thin for this dish; they fall apart within seconds once the kinilaw is scooped up.

I was most looking forward to trying the Spicy Funky Coconut Noodles with bagoong shrimp (HK$158; HK$138 with kabocha squash). Traditionally, this dish is paired with rice, but Jen’s changed it up, using thick, chewy noodles that pick up the sauce (made with coconut, chilli, fried garlic and coriander) as they’re twirled with each bite. This comforting, creative plate is influenced by Jen’s mother’s home region of Bicol, famed for its spicy coconut-milk dishes. The bagoong (a fermented krill marinade) shrimp were a bit overcooked and had a stringy, slightly tough texture, but the noodles overshadowed this part of the execution.

We enjoyed the Sizzling Sisig with pork belly (HK$138; HK$148 with salmon; HK$128 with shiitake and oyster mushrooms) with garlic rice (HK$38). Originating from the province of Pampanga in the region of Luzon, sisig is traditionally served on a hot plate; it’s made from pork jowl, pork ears, pork belly and chicken liver seasoned with onion, chilli and calamansi and is topped with a raw egg for stirring in. Barkada retains most of the classic recipe, drizzling the dish with Kewpie mayo. The calamansi lightens the rich and fatty flavours of the pork, while the egg cooks naturally on the hot plate and adds a creamy touch.

We ended our gut-busting meal with Jen’s mum’s cassava cake (HK$108). This sweet and buttery cake features a mochi-like centre and is topped with caramelised coconut syrup (known as latik) and a scoop of coconut ice cream. The natural starchiness of the cassava holds all the ingredients together and highlights the coconut’s sweet, delicate earthiness.

Verdict

This was my first time trying an array of Filipino dishes, and Barkada serves as a great introduction to the cuisine, delivering on its promise of serving up authentic flavours with a modern twist. We like the restaurant’s chilled atmosphere and the hearty, homestyle plates. Admittedly, some of the dishes’ classic flavours are overshadowed by the tendency towards and modernity and creativity (I’m a fan of allowing the traditional flavours to shine). However, Barkada’s warm, welcoming vibe left us feeling satisfied and content.

Where: UG/F, FOCO, 48 Cochrane Street, Central

For reservations: phone 2663 0238 or book online

This write-up is based on a complimentary media tasting provided in exchange for an honest review and no monetary compensation. The opinions expressed here represent the author’s.

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Sam Fancy consists of two floors. Downstairs, there’s a dive bar called Association, a term used to refer to a community of Chinese immigrants. The bar is casual and easygoing, focusing on both classic cocktails and tiki-style drinks as well as American beer on tap. Upstairs is The Merchant, a sleek speakeasy offering sophisticated, exotic cocktails using prized spirits.

The menu is split into two sections – the signature cocktails (HK$130 each) are inspired by the history of Chinese-American immigrants, while the frontier classics (prices vary; see below) are influenced by the West Coast in general and Old Gold Mountain (San Francisco) in particular, with many immigrants flocking to San Fran in the mid-1800s owing to its gold mines.

Starting with a refreshing, well-balanced signature cocktail, orange-hued Las Americas contains Bacardi rum, mango, lime, cucumber, honey and sriracha, with the fiery flavour of chilli lingering with each sip. It takes inspiration from a group known as Chino Latinos; these Chinese immigrants landed in Latin American countries before ending up in the USA as their final destination, and they speak both Chinese and Spanish.

On is the left is an old-fashioned, a classic off-menu concoction.

A must-order frontier classic is the Mai Tai Deluxe (HK$268), given a complex, premium twist at Sam Fancy with a blend of rums. Jon incorporates two of the most expensive rums around – Hampden Estate and Saint James XO. These rums are mixed with Clément Créole Shrubb D’Orange (an intensely flavoured liqueur made with orange peel that lingers on the palate), orgeat (a sweet syrup made with almond and rose water), demerara sugar and lime. The mix is poured into an ice-cold glass filled with crushed ice. Boozy and filled with citrusy and fruity flavours, this is one of the best cocktails I’ve had in a long while!

The subdued California Milk Punch (HK$128) – another frontier classic – ends on a clean, earthy note, but it’s set to be given a tweak or two by Jon, with the goal of intensifying its flavours. This Cali-inspired cocktail showcases pineapple flesh that is smashed down and infused with alcohol. Sam Fancy’s recipe also uses concentrated pineapple juice to accentuate its fruity flavour, along with rum, brandy, lemon and green tea.

For a spirit-forward, Japanese-influenced cocktail, signature tipple Empty Hand is a good choice. This drink places the spotlight on Ryukyu awamori (Japan’s oldest distilled spirit), which contains subtle notes of chocolate and pear, alongside gentian liqueur, providing a slightly bitter undertone. Absinthe is microdosed to harmonise the drink’s delicate flavours. It’s finished off with sweet, herbaceous white vermouth, balancing the gentian liqueur’s bitterness.

Verdict

The cocktails at Sam Fancy are well balanced and refreshing, featuring a mix of fruity tipples and smooth, boozy numbers that incorporate rare, premium spirits. There’s a lot of history behind the drinks, with each giving us a glimpse of the history of Chinese immigrants in the USA. Association is a great option for your next night out with the gang, while The Merchant is tailored for more intimate chats.

Where: 3/F & 4/F, The Plaza, 21 D’Aguilar Street, LKF, Central

For reservations: DM on Instagram

This write-up is based on a complimentary media tasting provided in exchange for an honest review and no monetary compensation. The opinions expressed here represent the author’s.

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Chef Chan began his career at celebrated Italian restaurant Da Domenico, before honing his skills at various well-known restaurants around town including The Pawn. His most recent roles were Group Executive Chef for Classified Group and Group Corporate Chef for Il Bel Paese.

The first amuse-bouche of unsweetened white chocolate is popped with just one bite, bursting with the flavour of Earl Grey tea with its strong bergamot aroma.

The rest of the amuse-bouche are laid out on a long wooden tray. The deep-fried quail egg is surrounded by spaghetti-thin pastry, playing around with different textures, while the white asparagus panna cotta has a creamy texture and mild flavour – but unfortunately, both are a little off. I felt they could use a touch of salt to accentuate their flavours.

One amuse-bouche I did enjoy was the thin, crispy chicken skin – a savoury cracker complemented by dotted flavour blasts of sweet coconut cream and mild Thai green curry.

The menu kicks off with toro sourced from Spain, topped with a piece of sweet Hokkaido sea urchin. The clear tomato consommé jelly adds a refreshing touch of umami.

Prized Chiu Chow crab ravioli is wrapped in daikon, crowned with a dollop of Oscietra caviar. Daikon is a risky choice because it’s often bitter and overpowering, but here, its flavour is enjoyably earthy. Its crunchy texture complements the soft texture of the sweet crabmeat. The horseradish “snow” adds a welcome pungency, however, the leek consommé is a bit too briny for my liking.

The langoustine it roasted over a Japanese charcoal grill and accented with Thai flavours including lemongrass, toasted garlic and bird’s-eye chilli.

The smooth, velvety potato cream holds a Japanese onsen egg sprinkled generously with black truffle. The egg adds a further creamy element to the dish and complements the porcini mushrooms hidden throughout. I like this dish’s focus on soft textures, with the potato component tying all the ingredients together.

Moving on to the heavier plates, the cod is one of the highlights of the menu. Piping-hot onion consommé is poured into a shallow bowl containing steamed Cantonese-style cod, along with crispy puffed rice and lily bulb. The soup is light and mildly sweet, and the puffed rice adds a lovely nutty, toasty element.

I’m not a huge fan of the texture of fish maw (+HK$460), but I love its smoky aroma. This well-seasoned fish maw sits atop a creamy lobster bisque-like sauce, with puffed rice again adding a nutty element.

The main course is Hida Wagyu (or you can opt for the carabinero and maitake risotto). Surrounding the beef is celeriac in two forms – thin, charred ribbons that have a slight crunch and a dark, smooth purée – giving a nutty, earthy edge to the dish. A dollop of citrus chimichurri further accentuates the dish’s earthy flavour profile.

The dessert places the spotlight on sesame – an essential ingredient throughout Asia – here given a modern European twist by Chef Chan in the form of milk chocolate and black sesame ganache and sesame tuile. A scoop of toasted coconut ice cream is plated on top of some crumble, with dots of passionfruit sauce adding a sour element. Delicious!

Verdict

1111 ONE’s new tasting menu is delicate on the palate, featuring mostly mild flavours and soft textures. Even though this menu isn’t filled with a ton of punchy, intense flavours, Chef Chan does an exemplary job showcasing a variety of Asian ingredients via European cooking techniques. Admittedly, some of the dishes could use a tweak or two to up their flavour profile.

Where: 11/F, 18 On Lan Street, Central

For reservations: phone 2910 1128, WhatsApp 9835 8606 or book online

This write-up is based on a complimentary media tasting provided in exchange for an honest review and no monetary compensation. The opinions expressed here represent the author’s.

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Left to right: Penishirin and Mido Koshu

The drink menu is spearheaded by veteran mixologist Gagan Gurung, who offers up memorable twists on classic cocktails. Starting our night, Penishirin and Mido Koshu (HK$120 each) whisked our palates straight to Japan. Peneshirin contains pandan rum, Japanese ginger liqueur and yuzu. Using a wooden cover with fine mesh, sakura wood is smoked over the cocktail. Unlike other smoky tipples, the sakura provide a subtle floral aroma. You’d expect the drink to be sweet owing to the added sugar, but it focuses instead on sour flavours, with the yuzu and ginger complementing each other well.

Mido Koshu is earthy and sweet, with the base of shiso and green bell pepper juice providing a bright green colour to the margarita-like drink. Mezcal gives a subtly smoky swish with each sip, and the glass is dusted with yuzu kosho, a mildly spicy fermented Japanese seasoning made with chilli, yuzu peel and salt.

Left to right: highball and Shisomato

Shisomato (HK$120) is a lighter version of a Bloody Mary made with Japanese tomato, giving an umami flavour to the cocktail. This blush-pink tipple contains vodka, shiso, balsamic vinegar and oyster mix and is refreshing and clean tasting.

For something simple, there are classic Japanese highballs on tap (HK$110) – easy drinking at its finest!

On the food front, the Kobi oysters (HK$78 for 2) are topped with yuzu pearls, which unfortunately don’t add a lot of flavour. A touch of acidity would be welcome with these shellfish.

Edamame (HK$58) are a popular Japanese snack, and at Yurakucho, these soybeans are dashi brined, charcoal grilled and accented with sweet miso. They’re super addictive and make for a great match with a highball or pint of beer.

The same goes for the chicken gyoza (HK$78). The plump, tender dumplings showcase crispy chicken skin. A classic Japanese snack that never goes out of style.

The food highlight at Yurakucho is the robotayaki. Leading the kitchen are chefs Vickly Mau and Matthew Chan, who highlight the natural flavours of each ingredient. The focus is on perfecting the grilling technique rather than on spices, rubs and heavy marinades. Admittedly, if you’re very hungry, you’re going to have to order a lot of skewers to get full! Kushiage (deep-fried skewers) is also available.

Our table was quickly covered with skewers hot off the robata. The earthy shishito peppers (HK$88 for 2) are topped with thinly shaved bonito. The lightly salted chicken hearts (HK$108 for 2) have a slight chew, while the hon-shimeji mushrooms (HK$98 for 2) are covered in a light, sweet glaze.

I found the seasoning of the tsukune (HK$98) and its presentation a little off. It tasted more like thyme-flavoured chicken sausage drenched in a sweet sauce, crowned with a large egg yolk. Personally, I prefer the classic version of tsukune – skewered chicken meatballs, with the yolk on the side – but this was definitely the heartiest robata dish of our tasting.

Verdict

Yurakucho gives guests an atmospheric glimpse of Japan. I’m fond of the cocktails, but I found that the food menu is tailored to groups of only up to four guests; the skewers and izakaya dishes needed to satisfy larger groups would quickly add up. Regardless, Yurakucho is a great place to stop by both after work or late night for some tasty Japanese bites and drinks in Central.

Where: G/F, Yu Yuet Lai Building, 43–55 Wyndham Street, Central

For reservations: phone 2663 0068 or book online

This write-up is based on a complimentary media tasting provided in exchange for an honest review and no monetary compensation. The opinions expressed here represent the author’s.

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