Branch out and explore Chardonnay alternatives

Chardonnay is an international grape variety grown in all wine countries, from cool Germany to warm Australia. Because of its neutral character, Chardonnay is a winemaker’s canvas, where various winemaking techniques can be employed to make different expressions of wine. 

Chablis is a classic Chardonnay from cool climates displaying fresh acidity, minerality and apple and citrus aromas. Depending on if it’s fermented in stainless-steel tanks or old barrels, its texture can have different degrees of creaminess.

One alternative to Chablis is Weissburgunder (Pinot Blanc) from Germany. Similar to Chardonnay, it has a neutral bouquet, but barrel fermentation and lees stirring give the wine a creamy texture. Weissburgunder grown at Premier or Grand Cru sites shows depth and concentration, allowing the wine to age gracefully.

However, don’t confuse German Weissburgunder with Italian Pinot Bianco (Italian for Pinot Blanc). Pinot Bianco served as house wine is often light-bodied with a simple citrus aroma, lacking the depth and texture of its German counterpart. 

If you prefer Italian, Soave, made from the Garganega grape in north-east Italy, is a good option for Chablis. Its citrus, peach aromas are refreshing, and the smart use of oak adds another dimension of nuttiness and roundness to the wine.

Moving to warmer climates, Chardonnay displays riper fruit aromas of stone fruits and melon and has higher alcohol, medium acidity and a rounder mouthfeel. Roussanne from South Africa and Australia has a similar fruit profile and texture. In its native Rhone Valley, Roussanne is often blended with Marsanne and other varieties to produce a full-bodied wine with apple and yellow fruits aromas that can be mistaken as South Australian Chardonnay.

Heavily oaked Chardonnay from California and Australia might be out of fashion, but for its fans, an oaked Viognier can be a pleasant substitute. Its lush, full-bodied palate with exotic fruits and sweet spices keeps oaked Chardonnay lovers asking for more.

I know some wine consumers stick only to the grape varieties with which they are familiar. If you belong to this group and happen to like Chardonnay, it’s a pity to miss out on so many Chardonnay alternatives. The next time you go wine shopping, open both your eyes and mind!

RELATED: Fancy a replacement for your Burgundy Pinot Noir?

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The price of Burgundy wine, especially red, has increased so much that it’s often beyond the reach of the average wine lover. While there is no replacement for Burgundy, there are certainly more affordable alternatives that are just as attractive.

My favourite Pinot Noir alternative is wine from Mount Etna in Sicily, known as the Burgundy of the Mediterranean. Blessed with unique soil and an exceptional climate, the vines there are mostly grown on the slopes of the volcano at an altitude of between 450 and 900 metres, with some even planted higher than 1,000 metres. The mineral-rich black volcanic-lava soil, combined with the continental microclimate with its mountain–high diurnal temperature and low rainfall in summer, give the wine freshness and elegance.

The two red varieties grown on Mount Etna are Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio. Nerello Mascalese is an elegant, light- to medium-bodied red wine reminiscent of Pinot Noir with floral and fruity notes, a hint of earthiness, fine tannin and firm acidity, whereas the latter is more aromatic and softer in structure. Both can be made into varietal wines, but they can also be blended in order to combine their relative merits.

RELATED: You might like Michelin-starred Cantonese with fine Italian wine. Why not?

Then there is Lemberger from Germany, also known as Blaufränkisch in Austria and Kékfrankos in Hungary. Lemberger is dark in colour, has cherry and berry notes, high acidity, moderate tannin and long ageing potential. I would describe its style as between Pinot Noir and Nebbiolo from northern Italy. Along with Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio, this variety has high acidity, giving it both freshness and ageing potential.

Just south of Burgundy is Beaujolais, a French wine region known for its Beaujolais Nouveau made from Gamay, a wine with an early release on the third Thursday of November. This wine has overt banana and bubblegum aromas because of its production method and is often dismissed by serious wine lovers. However, seriously made Gamay, under the classification of Beaujolais Villages and Beaujolais Crus, is reminiscent of its genetic cousin Pinot Noir, with notes of red fruits and herbs and lively acidity.

Of course, there is also Pinot Noir from outside Burgundy to consider. Baden, a wine region in Germany east of Burgundy, has a similar climate. Its Pinot Noir (Spätburgunder), especially bottles from Premier Cru and Grand Cru vineyards, is as elegant and long-living as its Burgundian counterpart.

Another region to check out is Hemel-en-Aarde in South Africa. Cooled by the Atlantic Ocean, the Pinot Noir there ripens slowly to develop multilayered flavours without sacrificing acidity. This wine has a slightly bigger structure than Burgundy’s but is just as graceful.

Burgundy Pinot Noir is irreplaceable, but you might actually prefer these alternatives after you taste them. It’s time to explore now!

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Germany is one of the first wine countries to have returned to Hong Kong since our border has reopened. The country had a prominent pavilion with 14 producers at ProWine Hong Kong three weeks ago, and now its global ambassador, the German Wine Queen, is heading our way to celebrate Riesling Weeks Hong Kong with us.

Launched in 2013 and organised by Wines of Germany, Riesling Weeks Hong Kong is a month-long celebration of German wine that takes place each year in June. Together with wine suppliers, the campaign aims to introduce more German wine to HK wine lovers. Leading hotels and restaurants are offering German wine and food pairings, while retailers and wine clubs are hosting wine-tasting events. This year is the 11th anniversary of Riesling Weeks, and the campaign is highly anticipated by wine lovers.

Born to a winemaking family, the 74^th German Wine Queen, Katrin Lang from Baden, has been working in the vineyards since she was a child. Her passion for wine has grown since then. After completing her studies in viticulture and winemaking, she joined Weingut Zähringer as winemaker. During her stay in Hong Kong, Katrin has a busy schedule, attending various German wine dinners, speaking at the Vocational Training Council and Hong Kong PolyU and conducting guided tastings at Vinothek Berlin, the German wine pop-up shop at Central Market. 

White asparagus is a German delicacy grown between mid-April and the end of June. Just as in previous years, Riesling Weeks participants, including Nicholini’s at Conrad Hong Kong, Dot Cod Seafood Restaurant & Oyster Bar, German fine-dining restaurant Heimat by Peter Find and Trattoria Kagawa by Mihara, will be offering the pairing of this seasonal vegetable with German wine.

German wine pairs well with Asian cuisines. Diners can sample these perfect pairings at Aaharn, where the aromas of Riesling complement the fragrance of Thai ingredients, or at CHAAT at Rosewood Hong Kong, where the exotic flavours of Indian spices alongside Riesling delight the palate. Chinese restaurants including Dynasty 滿福樓, Sha Tin 18 and YUE 采悅軒 will also offer German-wine pairing menus.

Schnitzel & Schnaps will feature German sausages and a German wine menu, while Simon Rogan’s chef’s table, Aulis Hong Kong, will offer an interactive dining experience showcasing a German wine-pairing menu. For a fun evening out with friends, the German wine and snack pairing at Mirage Bar & Restaurant at Renaissance Hong Kong Harbour View Hotel is not to be missed.

Vinothek Berlin, Hong Kong’s first German wine-experience pop-up store, debuted in 2021, and it will be returning as part of Riesling Weeks Hong Kong. The location this time is Central Market. In addition to the around 100 German wines on offer, there are wine-grape juices to sample, including Riesling, Spätburgunder, Huxelrebe and Merlot, as well as delicious German delicacies.

Decorated with colourful Berlin street art, Vinothek Berlin is an ideal photo spot. There are a series of guided tasting sessions where wine lovers can learn more about German wine from experts, with nine topics to be explored (including The Many Faces of Riesling, Grosses Gewächs Grand Cru Dry Riesling and Savour Aged Riesling, 1982–2012). Places are limited and and can be booked online via this link.

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Rockford Wines come from the Barossa, one of the most well-known Australian wine regions and also one of the country’s oldest, dating back to 1842. Located in the state of South Australia, it’s famous for its powerful, full-bodied red wines that are amongst the most popular Aussie red wines in Hong Kong.

To be honest, I’m not a fan of big Barossa red wines, probably because of my lifestyle and taste preferences. However, I was pleasantly surprised when I recently tasted a few bottles by Rockford Wines.

Rockford’s founder, Robert O’Callaghan, is from Victoria, which has a reputation for relatively cool-climate wine. Yet O’Callaghan prefers full-bodied wine, so he decided to establish himself in Barossa. Apparently, he is also one of those stubborn winemakers who doesn’t like modernisation, and he’s still using some of the original equipment in his wineries. I’m not sure if this is the reason why his wine is more rustic than the majority of Barossa wines.

Basket Press Shiraz is Rockford’s flagship wine. The latest vintage is 2016, which already has seven years of ageing. Black fruits are layered with chocolate, nuts and a hint of smoke; it’s earthy rather than flashy. Craig Hadden, a representative of Rockford Wines, said that owing to consumer preference, there is a trend in Barossa to make less powerfully alcoholic wines, and Rockford is one of them. This Shiraz has 14% alcohol but is not over the top. The nice, ripe tannin and balanced acidity make it a food-friendly wine – think braised lamb and sizzling beef.

The other pleasantly surprising wine is Black Shiraz Sparkling NV. Sparkling Shiraz is uniquely Australian and hugely popular there, but there is no legal definition for it. The bubbles can be carbonated or created by fermentation in the bottle, just like champagne. This Rockford sparkling Shiraz is the latter, and the base wine is a blend of newer-vintage oak-matured Shiraz and an older rolling blend with more than 35 years in the making. The wine has tannin, a touch of sweetness, notes of black fruits and 13.5% alcohol – it’s certainly not your standard sparkling wine. I couldn’t help but think of of honey-glazed BBQ spareribs when I tasted this wine.

Rockford Wines has a strong following in Australia, with most wines sold directly to consumers on allocation. Only 20% of the wine is exported. Hong Kong is one of the lucky markets to showcase Rockford bottles; they are available here from Fine Vintage.

RELATED: Interested in the best of South African wines?

This recent Rockford tasting was jointly organised by Tastiva, a new wine app that aims to revolutionise wine e-commerce. It supports wine influencers with procurement and fulfilment so that they can focus on introducing wine to consumers. At the same time, it acts as a one-stop shop for consumers. Wine lovers should certainly check it out.

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Obviously, I’m a wine fan, but I’m also a coffee lover, so I always like the concept of a coffee shop cum wine bar. Coffee shops usually close at 6/7pm and wine bars only open at 5/6pm. Combining these two businesses makes sense and is certainly a great way of utilising space, especially in a high-cost rental city like Hong Kong.

There are a few coffee-wine bars in Hong Kong, but most are focused on coffee, with a fairly limited wine selection. However, mato stands out because it’s as serious about wine as it is about coffee. Its concept is coffee-wine omasake, where the barista and sommelier recommend both coffee and wine to pair with the food according to your preferences. The menu features Japanese-inspired pasta dishes and a nice selection of small bites.

Starting with the coffee, all coffee drinks are made with single-origin espresso – single origin, single producer and single crop from Copehagen’s April Coffee Roasters. To fully appreciate the coffee, mato offers a coffee and chocolate pairing of three single-origin chocolates with three single-origin coffees.

Although it’s a small place with only around 30 seats, mato boasts more than 140 grape varieties on its wine list. Wine lovers are rewarded with a variety badge for each new variety they try. Collect 20 badges and you’ll get a free glass of wine. When you earn 80 badges, you’ll receive a 10% discount on all future purchases, to be shared with 10 friends. While the wines offered here are mostly classic, well-known labels, the team are most proud of their wide selection of wine from small producers and lesser-known wine regions.

The all-you-can-drink menu

What I like most at mato is its All-You-Can-Taste initiative. Every month, the sommelier selects six wines according to the monthly theme, and these are offered in a two-hour free-flow deal for just HK$350 per person – perfect for enjoying solo or with friends. In addition to this offering, there are at least 30 wines at mato that can be ordered by the glass. In fact, there always seems to be a few solo wine lovers at the bar chatting with mato’s super-friendly staff.

RELATED: There are some talented South African winemakers with small scale wines available in HK

Wine goes hand in hand with food. The small bites at mato include Black Angus beef balls, whitebait potato croquettes and Japanese minced chicken skewers, and they are the ideal accompaniments to the wine. The sommelier is more than happy to recommend a dish to pair with any wine you have chosen.

You won’t feel at all intimidated at mato – as is rightly stated on their website, “Let us take you on a tasting journey personalised to your degree of interest. Happy to go easy or geeky – however you like it.” Whether you’re a serious wine fan or simply a newbie who wants to learn more, mato won’t disappoint!

Where: Shop G02, G/F, Nan Fung Place, 173 Des Voeux Road Central, Central

Opening hours: Monday–Saturday, 12–8pm

To contact: email team@matocoffeewine.com

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Sake is brewed in almost all the 47 prefectures of Japan. Tochigi, a prefecture in the Kanto region that perhaps is not as well known as its neighbours, is pleased to partner with the Hong Kong Washu Awards and Gonpachi Japanese restaurant to introduce more of its sake to Hong Kong.

Tochigi is less than one hour from Tokyo by Shinkansen (bullet train). It’s surrounded by mountains, from which rivers flow. These rivers are sources of clean spring water for sake brewing. Water makes up over 80% of sake and contributes to its style. The water in Tochigi is soft with a minimum of minerals, resulting in sake with floral and fruity characteristics. Tochigi has also developed its own sake rice – Yumesasara – which can achieve a high polish ratio in order to produce Ginjo and Daiginjo sake.

From now until the end of June, Gonpachi is showcasing sake from 13 breweries in Tochigi. The different styles of sake range from traditional to modern and from Nama-sake to Daiginjo, complementing the authentic yet avant-garde cuisine served at the eatery.

To celebrate Tochigi sake, an eight-course Sakura Matsuri Set Menu (HK$1,680 for 2 without sake) has been specially created. We sampled the menu with different Tochigi sake and were pleasantly surprised. My favourite course is the tuna sashimi paired with Kaika Junmai Ginjo (開華 純米吟醸 風の一輪). This sake is refreshing and light. I enjoyed it very much on its own, but I thought the tuna-belly sashimi might overpower it. In contrast, the sake opens up and becomes more intense, complementing the tuna’s flavour.

This Sakura Matsuri Set Menu is only available until the end of April at the Gonpachi outlet located at Lee Garden Two in Causeway Bay.

The Daina Shiboritate Tokubetsu Junmai Nama Genshu (大那 特別純米 初しぼり生酒) was another surprise with the tempura course. This delicate sake enhances the asparagus’ flavour while creating a nice contrasting texture with the oyster.

For wine lovers, the Senkin Classic (Classic 仙禽 無垢) is a must-try sake. With food matching in mind, this sake is influenced by wine and has a higher acidity than most sake that pair well with oily dishes. This sake is pure and elegant, enhancing the braised abalone with sakura.

Sake does not fight with food because, unlike wine, it has low acidity and bitterness. It’s versatile and often acts in the background to support the food with which it’s served. But this pairing experience at Gonpachi brings sake to the forefront and proves that sake-food pairings can be as interesting and surprising as wine-food pairings.

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The celebration has been on a smaller scale these past two pandemic years, but Wines of South Africa (WoSA), the organiser of the event, is excited to bring back the campaign in full swing, with this year marking its 10th anniversary.

Over 100 participating restaurants, wine retailers and online shops are offering various South African wine promotions during the month of April. A few dining highlights include the Simonsig Kaapse Vonkel Brut Rosé (Cap Classique) and biltong pairing at Champagne Bar at Grand Hyatt Hong Kong, the South African gastronomic excursion at Mirage Bar & Restaurant at Renaissance Hong Kong Harbour View Hotel, the South African wine-pairing journey at SKYE Roofbar & Dining at The Park Lane Hong Kong, the night dedicated to David & Nadia Wines’ magnums at Shady Acres and the all-you-can-taste South African wine event at mato. To indulge in full South African fare, head to either Africa Coffee & Tea or Call Me AL for South African wine-pairing dinners.

For more casual tastings, drop by FRANCIS (wine flights), La Cabane (public tastings) or PD Jemmuelson (flights for Longridge Tasting Day on 28 April). Otherwise, you can order online from Wine Impala (Favourites Sampler Box) or pick up various South African wine at a discount at many online wine stores. Wine retailers and supermarkets including Watson’s Wine, Two More Glasses, Crushed Wines, Vynluna Wines, 3hreesixty and Market Place by Jasons are also running different promotions.

Selfie and IG savvy wine lovers should enter the SPECTACULAR South Africa photo competition organised by MyiCellar for a chance to win a South African gift basket. You can also vote for your favourite South African wine, with the three wines garnering the most votes offered at a discount.

In addition, the SPECTACULAR South Africa Experience Store, a pop-up shop that debuted in 2021 to great fanfare, will be returning this year to Central Market from 24 April until 10 May. A collaboration between Wines of South Africa, Brand South Africa and the South African Consulate General in Hong Kong, the pop-up seeks to showcase some of the country’s preeminent, world-class exports. Chief amongst these are the nation’s wines (which South Africa has been producing for the past 364 years), biltong (the country’s most beloved snack) and rooibos tea (a native South African tea that’s rich in antioxidants).

The highlight of the pop-up is a series of themed tasting experiences. Wine lovers can explore the diversity of South African wine over a tasting of six wines, from South Africa’s signature grape varieties of Chenin Blanc and Pinotage to the classic premium wine and creative blends produced by young winemakers. There are 14 sessions covering 11 themes. These experiences will be conducted by wine professionals, and attendees will receive a wine voucher for use at the pop-up shop. There are limited seats, so book now – tickets can be booked online.

RELATED: Meet the winemakers behind some great South African wine

South Africa’s rich winemaking history includes Dutch, French, German and Italian influences. It embraces all the best traditions of Old World wines while still exploring New World styles. In the past two decades, South African wines have taken a quantum leap forward, featuring more and more innovative young winemakers. International wine critics have praised the creativity, originality and quality of South African wine and share the view that South Africa is the most dynamic and exciting New World wine country at the moment.

Whether you’ve been to South Africa, are planning a trip there or haven’t even thought about it yet – visit the South African pop-up shop and you will be convinced that the Rainbow Nation should be at the top of your must-travel list. I visited South Africa for first time in 1994 and have been back 15 times since then! I’m sure you’ll enjoy South Africa’s scenery, wine, food, hospitality and vibe as much as I do.

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Semillon is rich, with relatively low acidity when ripe. It’s typically blended with higher-acidity Sauvignon Blanc to create a dry, oaked white wine that is made in nearly every wine region of the world. It’s also synonymous with the world’s great Sauternes, a sweet wine made from botrytised Semillon grapes.

Just two hours’ drive north of Sydney, Hunter Valley is the oldest wine region in Australia, with Semillon growing there since the late 1800s. The region is warm and humid and experiences frequent summer rain.

Semillon is picked early to avoid the grapes turning mouldy. To preserve its delicate flavours, it’s fermented in neutral tanks or old barrels to yield a wine with naturally high acidity and only around 11% alcohol. The wine is austere when young but can develop in the bottle for more than 10 years. This is a very different style of Semillon compared to those made in other regions of Australia where the grapes are picked when they are riper and made with oak in order to produce more full-bodied, richer wine.

Because of the minimalist approach in winemaking, Hunter Valley Semillon is particularly expressive of the terroir. I recently visited Thomas Wines in Hunter Valley and was impressed by a tasting of young and aged Semillon grown in different soils.

The first two wines were from the 2022 vintage. Fordwich Hill Semillon is grown in red volcanic soil, resulting in a more generous wine with aromas of stone fruits and melon. The O.C. Semillon, on the other hand, has bright citrus, green apple and mineral notes from the sandy, loamy river soil. Both wines have vibrant acidity that complement deep-fried dishes and fresh seafood. The latter in particular pairs well with fresh oysters.

We then compared the 2022 and 2016 Braemore Semillon. Planted in 1969, Braemore is one of the three best vineyard sites in Hunter Valley, offering alluvial soil. The young 2022 wine is fresh, pure and intense, with incredible depth that guarantees it has a long life ahead. The aged 2016 has multilayered flavours of star fruit, plum, roasted nuts and herbs. The acidity is lively, with a softer edge because of its age; it drinks well now, but the wine can develop for a further 10 years in the bottle. This pair of wines perfectly showcases the longevity of Hunter Valley Semillon.

If Semillon is the star white wine of Hunter Valley, Shiraz is the standout red wine. Thanks to the often cloudy but warm climate, Hunter Valley Shiraz is more structured, with vibrant aromas of red and black fruits and often a hint of pepper, compared to the big and jammy Shiraz from Barossa in South Australia.

Unfortunately, Thomas Wines are not available in Hong Kong. However, Tyrrell’s and Mount Pleasant – arguably the two most well-known wineries in Hunter Valley – are represented here. Look out for their aged Semillon in order to explore the other side of Australian wine.

And the next time you visit Sydney, spend a few days in Hunter Valley. There are over 100 big and small wineries offering cellar-door tasting experiences. Some also have cafés, restaurants and accommodation.

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The winemakers behind these labels have a few things in common. They are all passionate, respect the land and terroir, want to make wine as naturally as possible and are relentless in pursuing their goals.

The winemakers behind great South African wine

Mullineux Wines was established in Swartland in 2007 by husband-and-wife team Chris and Andrea Mullineux. Andrea is a California girl who has made wine in the USA, France and South Africa. Chris is a native South African and met Andrea while working in France. Mullineux makes wine grown on three main soil types – schist, granite and iron – allowing the grapes to express the unique characteristics of each. Its Granite Syrah 2017 is elegant yet composed, perfumy on the nose with a savoury palate and has at least 15 years of ageing potential. Mullineux has been named Platter’s Winery of the Year five times between 2014–2023.

Also from California is Samantha O’Keefe, who has built Lismore from the ground up since 2003. A pioneer of the cool Overberg wine region, Lismore is still the only registered wine estate in the Greyton ward. Blessed by cold winter snow, warm summer sun and high diurnal temperatures, Lismore wines display finesse, balance and a purity of fruits. The Age of Grace Viognier 2020 is textural, with exotic fruit aromas supported by firm acidity – a graceful South African wine that truly lives up to its name.

Swartland is a wine region dotted with forgotten, dry old vines that have caught the attention of new-wave winemakers, including Donavan Rall. These vineyards are low yielding and, with the right type of soil, ensure a growth balance that makes a hands-off winemaking approach possible. Donavan started Rall Wines in 2008 with only one parcel of Chenin Blanc in Swartland, and he now farms 15 hectares of vines in both Swartland and Stellenbosch. Rall White 2020 is a blend of Chenin Blanc, Verdelho and Viognier that shows tension and depth, with yellow stone fruits and minerality.

Chris and Susan Alheit are another husband-and-wife team; they set up Alheit Vineyards in 2010 after working vintages around the world together including in the USA, Australia, Germany and France. Their goal – to make authentic Cape wine – is fully reflected in the winery’s flagship wine – Cartology – which is a blend of 90% Chenin Blanc aged between 35–50 years and 10% Semillon. The 2020 vintage is intense, deep and expressive. The 84-year-old Semillon from Franschhoek adds an extra dimension to the wine.

Crystallum belongs to brother team Peter-Allan and Andrew, the third generation of Finlayson winemakers. Established in 2007, they make exclusive Burgundian varieties of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, both multi-vineyard blends and single-vineyard wines grown in the Hemel-en-Aarde region with its cool breezes from the Atlantic. Peter Max Pinot Noir is named after the first names of the growers who supplied the fruits for the first vintage. Although the fruit sources have since changed, the moniker remains in order to honour the beginning of this multi-vineyard Pinot Noir blend. The 2021 vintage of this wonderful South African wine is vibrant with multilayered aromas of red fruits, liquorice and black olive, combining the best of Old and New World Pinot Noir.

These winemakers are perfectionists, and their wines are highly praised by international wine critics. They believe that wine should be shared, so even though they only make limited quantities the prices are very reasonable. Check them out in Hong Kong at Summergate Fine Wines.

RELATED: Celebrate SPECTACULAR South Africa – a month long wine festival in Hong Kong

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Lemberger prefers a warmer climate, and in Germany, it is almost exclusively grown in Württemberg, a wine region in the south. It is dark in colour, has cherry and berry notes, high acidity, moderate tannin and long ageing potential.

Württemberg is Germany’s premier red wine region, but it is more well known for its industrial economy, being home to global players like Bosch, Mercedes-Benz and Porsche. As a matter of fact, four out of five winegrowers cultivate less than one hectare of vines, and most wines are produced in cooperatives. Moreover, nearly all wine is consumed in Württemberg, and very few bottles are sold in other parts of Germany, let alone overseas.

I was excited to find out that Weingut Karl Haidle from Württemberg can be enjoyed in Hong Kong and even more excited to have a recent Zoom tasting session with Moritz Haidle, the third-generation owner/winemaker.

Weingut Karl Haidle stands out for a few reasons. In 1949, Karl Haidle, the grandfather of Moritz, decided to establish a private wine estate instead of joining a cooperative. When the estate was passed to the second generation in 1962, Hans Haidle, the father of Moritz, expanded the vineyard holding from 2.5 to 23 hectares. He also made a few pioneering moves – ageing red wine in new French barriques (most winegrowers used old barrels), making dry wine when sweet wine was the norm and becoming one of the first to plant Lemberger.

Like most Württemberg wine estates at that time, Weingut Karl Haidle planted a few different grape varieties. When Moritz took the helm in 2014, he had the vision to focus only on two varieties – Riesling and Lemberger – Riesling because the village where the estate is located is known for this wine and Lemberger because his father was successful with the wine and scooped the VINUM German Red Wine Award seven times. So far, Moritz has deleted 14 wines from its portfolio.

We tasted four Lemberger wines, ranging from the estate level (Gutsweine, Stettener Lemberger), to Premier Cru (Erste Lage, Stettener Häder Lemberger), to Grand Cru (Grosse Lage, Stettener Berge Lemberger GG and Stettener Gehrnhalde Lemberger GG). Because of the different soil types, placement, altitude and vineyard age, each wine has its own expression. The estate wines are accessible, while the two Grand Crus are more complex. Premier Cru Stettener Häder Lemberger is Moritz’s favourite; it’s fresh, with typical sour cherry and floral notes supported by fine tannin that matches well with braised meat dishes.

Lemberger is also grown in other countries but under different names – Blaufränkisch in Austria and Kékfrankos in Hungary. At a recent Blaufränkisch summit attended by international wine writers and sommeliers, it was agreed that the key to the quality of this grape variety is its high acidity, giving the wine freshness and ageing potential and earning it a place alongside Pinot Noir and Nebbiolo, the world’s great red wines with a similar acidity structure.

We also tasted five Rieslings from the estate, which are as impressive as the Lembergers. You can learn more about Weingut Karl Haidle in Hong Kong at Deco Wines.

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