House of Culture, Sai Ying Pun’s latest “sticky restaurant” (a spot dragging Hong Kongers to the quiet neighbourhood), “invites different cultures to come together and connect,” according to their quaint menu.
From chef Gavin Chin’s background of Malaysian and Australian roots, his restaurant mirrors a career’s worth of cooking. Gone are the tired French and Japanese techniques found at new and typical Hong Kong haunts. Instead, the chef features “eclectic” dishes that play up on umami, clever plating, and deep flavour combinations.
I am a fan of their menu construction, holding four categories to pace your meal: to start, to continue, to bring balance, and to end. Gavin and his team – 10-plus staff members, accounting for around 30 covers – recommend four “to start” and two “to continue” dishes for two people.
The baby kai lan (HKD118) was the first to land on our table, an ornately plated dish of chopped Chinese broccoli in three stacks, dressed in kombu oil and yuzu jelly. The flavours are earthy, nutty, and slightly lemon-like from the yuzu. I would have loved the addition of some crunch to balance the consistency of the vegetable.
Where Gavin’s cooking shines is in the chicken-liver parfait (HKD148) and duck croquette (HKD178), two strong starters that side with umami to deliver hearty flavours. Paired up with leeks and mala-dressed hazelnuts, the liver is ever so creamy, with a depth of bony flavour.
The duck arrives to brighten the table, arguably the strongest dish on the menu. With a pumpkin purée planted daintily on the crisp skin of the minced duck, each spoonful of the meat is gamy, with sparks of citrus and tang. The orange and soy broth helps with the flavour combination too.
Whilst the menu is strong with an evident splash of Australian influence, of which Gavin argues brings together the culinary cultures of Malaysia, China, and a bit of France, the menu concept does not have an entirely strong grounding on a specific concept.
When diners in Hong Kong are seeking new dining experiences, “international” or mixed-cuisine restaurants may preclude a complete digestion of what can be delivered. That’s why many restaurants rely on tried-and-tested cuisine concepts to define expectations for diners.
Nevertheless, we ventured on to bring our spoons to crack the rendang short rib (HKD388) into a delicious mess of slow-cooked beef in a pool of toasted coconut, Thai basil crumble, and a dark coconut sauce.
Mammoth in size for two people who have finished up the starter section, each bite is rich from the fatty beef glaze, helped on by a sweet, coconutty ending.
We enjoyed the grilled pineapple (HKD78), which aided with breaking down the fat enjoyed from the short rib. More focaccia should have been ordered to soak up the juices.
At the end of the meal, forks were implanted into the French toast (HKD108), a truly awesome dish bringing together a crème-brûlée-style French toast slab with poached pear and ginger cream. Swipe all the elements together and you’ll find yourself at a vanilla party, with forest notes that will warm your heart.
Our verdict of House of Culture
The menu at House of Culture, brand new on the scene, is expected to grow according to how diners interpret the restaurant. Eclectic? Yes. Tasty? Absolutely. Yet I believe Hong Kong loves labels on its food, and it may help to brand the restaurant as a unique modern Malaysian restaurant.
The service oscillates between friendly and amicable attention to slightly abrupt. The dishes are carefully described to spark diners’ intrigue. As a fan of Malaysian and Peranakan cuisines, I will be back to savour new plates under Gavin’s reign.
House of Culture, Shop B, G/F, Kenbo Commercial Building, 335–339 Queen’s Road West, Sai Ying Pun, 2886 9689, book here
| Order this: baby kai lan, prawn doughnut, duck croquette, rendang short rib, seared threadfin Menu: House of Culture à-la-carte menu Price for two: HKD1,000–HKD1,300 | Atmosphere: party-like, with fast-paced music and a roar emanating from the kitchen Perfect for: dinner with friends for food that may challenge you beyond your typical Rolodex of spots |
This review is intended to offer an individual perspective on the dining experience and should not be considered as a definitive judgement of the restaurant’s overall quality or reputation. The views expressed in this review are solely the author’s and do not reflect the opinions of Foodie.
