Fukuro has not yet finished celebrating its seventh birthday, an epic occasion for any spot operating beyond the time frame that most restaurants survive in Hong Kong. The restaurant business here is tough, but good food and drinks make it easier to trudge onwards.
A new chef, Kazunari “Kazu” Araki of Nobu fame in New York, comes to Fukuro to continue the legacy of one of Soho’s longest-surviving izakayas, catering to the “city’s night owls.”
Nothing has changed about the restaurant beyond the funky menu now presented on the table. The classic salaryman vibe and wood-panelled interior mean that the colour on the plate and palate pop out even more. That’s what’s central to the bigeye tuna zuke (HKD208) and kanpachi (HKD168).
Both the tuna and snapper dishes bring about amped-up fishy tones, with delicious additions of sea salt, garlic oil, jalapeño, onion, and other sour and salty seasonings. The fresh fish – and it is very fresh – is simply a canvas on which to paint the strong flavours driven into the mouth.
Bird lovers at Fukuro will be happy with the new menu; both the pepper chicken karaage (HKD138) and chicken tatsuta sando (HKD228) introduce juicy chicken bites in two different forms, taking on a Cantonese style of cooking.
I loved the salt and pepper dusting over the cornmeal batter, reminiscent of the typhoon shelter-style seasoning familiar to Hong Kong’s dai pai dongs and suiting local palates. The same coating is shared in the sando, where pickles and a mustard-strong coleslaw come in to amplify the sour flavours.
Other plates we ordered, including the gyoza (HKD128), again evince the central theme of sour and salty. The yuzu-heavy ponzu in which the gyoza bathe complements the vegetables packed tightly inside the dumplings.
Before we got to the sweets, Fukuro’s new unagi and Wagyu claypot rice (HKD278) provided a sensational buttery bite. The unagi, more commonly known as eel, is perfectly tender and slathered in teriyaki sauce. The A4 Wagyu soaks the crispy sushi rice and spreads strong beefy flavours throughout the dish.
The burnt miso cheesecake (HKD88) is the perfect ending to a salty and sour meal at Fukuro. A palate cleanser befitting the Japanese theme of the menu, each spoonful is ridiculously indulgent. The texture is pleasant on the tongue, with the sweetness of the cheesecake boosting our serotonin levels.
Our verdict of Fukuro
Seven years after launching in Hong Kong, at the time Black Sheep’s 18th opening, Fukuro has survived – and thrived – through the group’s doubling of its restaurant count and the many twists and turns of Hong Kong’s F&B scene. One thing’s for certain: Fukuro’s izakaya vibe, menu, and quality sake prove that this spot is needed in Soho for a delicious temporary escape to Nippon.
Fukuro, 1–5 Elgin Street, Soho, Central, 2333 8841, book here
| Order this: kanpachi, gyoza, chicken tatsuta sando, burnt miso cheesecake Menu: Fukuro food menu Price for two: HKD600–HKD750 | Atmosphere: akin to Japan’s bustling izakayas, but remaining clean with its service and interior Perfect for: sake-filled dinners with friends |
This review is intended to offer an individual perspective on the dining experience and should not be considered as a definitive judgement of the restaurant’s overall quality or reputation. The views expressed in this review are solely the author’s and do not reflect the opinions of Foodie.
