We’re well aware that Japanese is the most popular foreign cuisine in Hong, running the gamut from sushi to yakitori. However, one Japanese culinary concept that we feel deserves more love is yoshoku, a style of Western-influenced cooking that’s unique to the nation, akin to Hong Kong’s beloved cha chaan teng concept. Yoshoku dishes that bring us joy include the likes of omurice, or omelette rice, and ketchup-based spaghetti napolitan.
In Taikoo Shing, native Okinawan chef Omine Sozen of Bistro Maru Maru shines a spotlight on the art of yoshoku, in partnership with Epicurean Group izakaya expert Hotta Tomoyuki, who led the original Maru Maru when it opened in the neighbourhood in 2023.
Chef Omine has been cooking up a storm since 1982, when he was the second-generation protégé of master chef Nobuo Murakami at Tokyo’s Imperial Hotel. At Bistro Maru Maru, chef Omine delivers contemporary takes on yoshoku recipes and techniques.
In the tuna tartare served with ice-cream cone (HKD83), the tartare itself is delicious – we especially love the addition of daikon for a crunchy textural element – but we think the store-bought ice-cream cone is gimmicky and unwarranted.
A much better appetiser option is the deep-fried mozzarella cheese (HKD63), lighter than its Italian-American counterpart. The cheese balls sit atop a fresh tomato sauce that’s a quintessential complement to this carby dish.
We also enjoyed the mentaiko potato salad (HKD62), a hefty portion of sweet and tangy Japanese-style mentaiko-studded potato salad crowned with a runny egg. Mix the egg with the potato salad and accompanying salad leaves and you’ve got yourself a surprising flavour bomb.
Chef Omine is justly proud of his thick Hokkaido Sangen pork teppanyaki (HKD155/175). Forty-four hours of preparation time (20 hours of marination in a herb brine, followed by slow-cooking for a full day) are required before the mighty cut of pork tenderloin is brought to the table, resting in a mini skillet. A choice of sauce comes on the side; we think the punchy curry sauce is the best fit for the pork’s pure savouriness, whilst the demi-glace and tomato sauce seem bland in comparison.
Tonkatsu, inspired by German schnitzel, has become a cherished Japanese comfort food, and we actually prefer the deep-fried pork loin (HKD128/HKD148) to the Sangen pork. The soft, crispy, deep-fried panko coating nicely envelopes the pork loin. The loin itself seems leaner than most, but it makes up for it with a strong natural meat flavour.
The taco rice (HKD83) is a nod to chef Omine’s Okinawan heritage, where the Tex-Mex-meets-Japanese dish is most popular. Bistro Maru Maru’s version is a moreish mishmash of shredded lettuce, melted cheese, chopped tomato, tomato salsa, and spiced beef mince heaped upon a mound of steamed Japanese rice – our favourite dish of the tasting for pure comfort.
The homemade Saikyo miso-flavoured crema catalana (HKD48) is a fitting ending to a meal at Bistro Maru. Chef Omine’s rendition of this traditional Spanish caramelised custard takes on a frozen format, glazed with an umami hint of miso. This dessert strikes just the right balance between sweet and savoury.
Our verdict of Bistro Maru Maru
Bistro Maru Maru highlights a sometimes underappreciated facet of Japanese cuisine – yoshoku – in all its comforting deliciousness. Taikoo Shing has more and more enticing, wallet-friendly restaurants popping up lately, and Bistro Maru Maru fits right in.
Although it was our mission to tackle Bistro Maru Maru’s yoshoku dishes, the classic izakaya side of the concept comes into play on the menu too, with several pages of skewer, sashimi, and sukiyaki items that we’ll be back to try.
Bistro Maru Maru, Shop G1019, G/F, Kam Sing Mansion, 3 Tai Fung Avenue, Taikoo Shing, 2505 2266
| Order this: mentaiko potato salad, chicken Milanese, deep-fried pork loin, Sangen pork tenderloin, udon with mentaiko cream sauce, taco rice Menu: Bistro Maru Maru menu Price for two: HKD400–600 | Atmosphere: casual and simple, akin to a reliable neighbourhood joint in Tokyo Perfect for: a comforting, low-key meal post-work or even solo, when you’re craving homely Japanese flavours |
This review is intended to offer an individual perspective on the dining experience and should not be considered as a definitive judgement of the restaurant’s overall quality or reputation. The views expressed in this review are solely the author’s and do not reflect the opinions of Foodie.
