FRANCIS enters its sixth year in Wan Chai’s Starstreet Precinct, and the charm of Hong Kong’s second-ever Israeli restaurant stands strong to this day.
The marriage of chef Asher Goldstein, restaurateur James Ward, and sommelier Simone Sammuri brought FRANCIS to the public in 2018, with a steadfast principle of delivering strong Israeli mezze bites and a refreshing and reasonable wine list.
Tel Aviv native Asher arrived in the city to cook Italian food, opening up a smokehouse later on, before arriving in Wan Chai to birth FRANCIS with his familiar mezze and grilled recipes rooted in his saucy, spicy, and well-seasoned motherland.
Off the bat, we manned ourselves with Israel’s favourite dip, hummus (HKD120), paired optionally with more sourdough pita (+HKD30 each). This hummus features a smooth blend of chickpeas, tahini, and green zhug.
Tasting just like my mom’s recipe, this hummus bowl hits hard with a smooth texture powered with a strong garlic and lemon base. The dip is complemented by the heat of zhug, a Yemeni green pepper hot sauce that raises acidic tones with each bite.
The baked halloumi (HKD120) comes up next on our table with the same bravado and plating style as the hummus; added dustings of olive oil and oregano bring depth and a good aftertaste.
In the halloumi’s case, the slightly sour char of the cheese bites perfectly matches the tangy, sticky pomegranate molasses. I like the oregano dusting that brings earthier tones to play. Whilst I wished for a bigger portion, I was greatly satisfied with this mezze.
The FRANCIS theme of simple yet divergent flavour combinations returns with the vegetable side of smoked carrots (HKD95), an assortment of small baked finger carrots with a smooth, spiced honey sauce.
I am a fiend for spice and expected to burn after tasting the carrot dish, but the delicate smoky and spicy honey glaze is a complement to the saltier mains we dug into next. I loved the almond cream with its familiar hummus-like texture.
The powerful spice mixture za’atar, beloved in Israel, is exposed and celebrated with the chicken schnitzel (HKD180). Three tenderised chicken-breast fillets are fried with breadcrumbs and served with a pickled aioli and lemon-dressed cabbage side salad.
The chef team excel with the schnitzel, cooking the fillets with a breadcrumb mix that allows for a unique texture and capturing a salty and strong earthy touch from the za’atar blend. I would recommend asking for more aioli to moisten the schnitzel, which may dry up the longer the plate is on the table.
And, finally, we ended our meal on a high, guiding our forks into the kafta (HKD200). Four bobbles of spring lamb and beef mixed with spices are served on the plate, topped with red zhug. The tahini is a notable inclusion to temper the spicy meat with a creamy blank canvas.
I could not get enough of the kafta balls, blending gamy lamb and beef mince with cumin, mint, thyme, and sumac. What results is a spicy bite, leaving a hanging umami aftertaste. The meaty sensation is even better when bringing the tahini to play for a nutty touch.
Our verdict of FRANCIS
Six years after opening on St Francis Street, FRANCIS is still killing it with a menu that explores the depth of Israeli spices, charred proteins, and sweet touches from the land of milk and honey. I laud chef Asher for his mission to promote Israeli fare in Hong Kong, competing with the more familiar Lebanese and Egyptian flavours in the city.
FRANCIS, 4–6 St Francis Street, Wan Chai, WhatsApp 5216 8318, book here
| Order this: hummus, burnt eggplant, baked halloumi, kafta, chicken schnitzel Menu: FRANCIS à-la-carte menu Price for two: HKD350–500 | Atmosphere: cool and dimly lit, with hospitable service that shows genuine care about their mezze mission Perfect for: those seeking a mix of strong Israeli and Mediterranean flavours with complementing European wines |
This review is intended to offer an individual perspective on the dining experience and should not be considered as a definitive judgement of the restaurant’s overall quality or reputation. The views expressed in this review are solely the author’s and do not reflect the opinions of Foodie.
