Michelin Star dining is a daunting feat, beset with big-budget course menus and an expectation to sit upright and fit yourself in freshly ironed-clothes. Yat Tung Heen, a one Michelin star dim sum restaurant in the basement of the snazzy Eaton Hong Kong hotel, certainly differs from the haute and high-brow venues of starred sensation.
Basement restaurants in Hong Kong often allude to fears of humidity and darkness – Yat Tung Heen is neither. The cool and calm main hall of the restaurant sees tables spread wide apart and soft lighting that drives home the comfort feel when going out for yum cha.
The first bites of our meal – the chilled eggplant with garlic sauce (HKD58) and drunken chicken marinated with Chinese yellow wine (HKD88) drove home the principles of Yat Tung Heen: it is simple and elegant, not boisterous with over-the-top plating and recipes, but good in sustaining the traditions.
The poached chicken was flavoured well from its light bodied wine dunking, so too with the garlic sauce that pushed a strong aroma into the eggplant. A long Friday lunch suited our overordering of dim sum plates.
Up next came the steamed beef tripe with satay sauce (HKD48) and steamed minced beef balls with coriander (HKD48), two plates that do well in the bovine department. The tripe remains tender without the typically annoying chewy bite, helped on by a delicate sweet satay sauce. The beef balls oozed out a juice that begged for us to order one more plate – we saved our appetite for other dishes.
The final savoury item arriving at our table was the steamed vegetable dumplings with himematsutake mushroom (HKD58). Whilst packed with sauteed garden and root vegetables, the dumplings needed a dunking into the soy sauce and chilli sauce to draw out stronger flavours.
At Yat Tung Heen, we could not help but go overboard on the sweet side of the menu, caving our forks into the steamed sponge cake (HKD38) which was, according to my recency bias, a perfect recipe of the beloved dim sum cake. Fluffy, warm, and holding a slightly honey flavour in its body. The deep-fried custard buns (HKD48) were equally compelling.
Our meal saw its end with the last of the dishes, including the restaurant’s signature chilled mango glutinous rolls (HKD58). Using imported Filipino mangoes and wrapping them in desiccated coconut-dusted glutinous rolls, this sweet snack was perfectly balanced between a tangy sweetness and nutty touch. The caramelised crispy egg twist (HKD48), ordered at the end of our glutinous adventure, was a bit too much to muster after swallowing nine plates prior.
Our verdict of Yat Tung Heen
In search of a more refined dim sum meal, situated beyond the clink and clankering of your traditional haunts, Yat Tung Heen strikes a balance between your modern and historic yum cha takes. Their weekday dim sum lunch menu suits a family gathering with well-bodied flavours, whilst the main menu is broad for catering to all tastes.
Yat Tung Heen, Level B2, Eaton HK, 380 Nathan Road, Jordan, 2710 1093, book here
| Order this: beef tripe with satay sauce, vegetable dumplings, huadiao chicken, mango rice rolls Menu: dim sum and á la carte menu Price for two: HKD300-400 | Atmosphere: refined and modern restaurant interior with quick service Perfect for: tables of four, big family gatherings, and quiet dim sum lunches |
This review is intended to offer an individual perspective on the dining experience and should not be considered as a definitive judgement of the restaurant’s overall quality or reputation. The views expressed in this review are solely the author’s and do not reflect the opinions of Foodie.
